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Unlike
gold
and silver, Platinum is regarded by many as a relatively 'new'
metal. Archaeologists, have found traces of Platinum in Egyptian
gold pieces dating back to 1400 B.C. But the Egyptian don't seem
to have had a separate name for Platinum and probably regarded
it as some form of silver. It was only around 100 to 300 A.D that
platinum was understood as a separate metal by the Incas or South
American Indian. Their level of technological development was
low compared to the Egyptian civilization but they developed a
smelting process that produced a crudely refined form of Platinum
a grade 1500 yrs before anyone else.
Samples
of South American platinum one reached Europe in the mid 1700's
when it came to be called 'platina', spanish for little silver.
One
of the earliest decorative works of platinum stems back to Marc
Etienne Janety, a parsian artist metal worker who was known for
his mastery of the arsenic process, a method that made platinum
malleable. His only known work today, a glass lined platinum sugar
bowl dates back to 1786. The first platinum jewellery in Europe
appeared around the year 1780, at the court of Louis XVI of France.
William Hyde Wollaston and Smithson Tennant produced common grade
Platinum in England in the early 1800's, but it wasn't until the
invention of the Oxyhydrogen torch in the mid 19th century that
jewellery had a tool that could reach the high temperature required
to work in platinum. By 1817, Norton Johnson had a refinery in
London to produce malleable platinum, palladium & refine iridium
(Iridium was used for tipping gold pen points). It was George
Mathey, an employee at Johnsons firm, who finally developed the
alloy of 90% platinum and 10% iridium which is still the most
commonly used platinum alloy for jewellery today.
By
the 1880s, platinum began to replace silver (silver tarnishes
easily) for setting diamonds and was widely patronized by premier
jewellers as Cartier, Tiffany and the famed Russian jeweller Carl
Faberge. As their clientele was very wealthy, platinum quickly
became one of the jewellery world's greatest status symbols. It
dominated fine jewellery design during the Edwardian era, from
the 1880's until the end of W.W.1, ushering in the ornate designs
of Art nouveau jewellery.
After
WWI, in the 1920's & 30's, platinum lent itself to the streamlined
look of Art deco jewellery. Even during the depression, grand
jewellery Salons like Cartier & Harry Winston did booming
business in diamond & platinum jewellery. The Duchess of Windsor
declared platinum as the one and only jewellery choice for evening
wear. The world's most legendary diamonds, the Hope, Jonker, Kohinoor,
are all secured in platinum settings.The onset of WWII, curtailed
the burgeoning popularity of this precious metal. Platinum was
used in ammunition making and in early jet aircraft engines. During
this time, white gold was developed as a replacement.
Post war, interest in platinum jewellery revived and grew until
the late 50's & early 60's. The price of platinum rose about
5 times that of gold. Platinum jewellery lost a good part of its
market share.
Even in this substantial price difference, trendsetting Italian
designers & jewellers, started emphasizing platinum again
in the 80's. This spurred interest in other countries as US and
Japan.
Several other factors too have come into play to put platinum
back on the map. New mines have opened and sophisticated mining
processes have been developed. Price-wise, platinum remains stable
even though it is 5 times as rare as gold & is the purest
of all precious metals.
The
combined ability of platinum to hold gemstones immovably secure,
while enhancing their brilliance & depth makes it a setting
without equal.
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